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Chapter 10 | Section 13
Chapter 10 | Section 13
Updated: June 10, 2026

Food of Delhi: Elevated

Updated: June 10, 2026

Delhi doesn't only preserve its food — it pushes it forward. These kitchens took Indian cooking somewhere it hadn't been: reinterpreted, plated with intent, reimagined without losing the thread. Book ahead, bring an appetite for the unexpected, and expect to pay for it.

On this page:

A modern plated dish — a galouti-style roll resting on a nest of crisp fried strands in an orange bowl.

Nisaba (Sunder Nursery ) To understand Nisaba you have to start with Indian Accent, the restaurant that rewrote what modern Indian food could be — the blue-cheese naan, the duck khurchan, dishes that earned Delhi its first genuine place on the world's fine-dining map. The chef who built it, Manish Mehrotra, has since struck out on his own with Nisaba, his most personal venture yet. If you want the lineage, eat at Indian Accent; if you want the chef unbound, eat at Nisaba. Either way you're tasting the single most important hand in modern Indian cooking.

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A fine-dining plate — a dome of mousse dusted with pistachio, asparagus spears crossed over an orange swirl.

Diva (Greater Kailash II) Ritu Dalmia's modern Italian — the restaurant that taught Delhi to take Italian food seriously, well before the city had the palate for it. Honest, ingredient-led cooking from someone who genuinely knows the cuisine, not a hotel approximation of it. Proof that “elevated" needn't mean Indian: this is a cuisine done properly, by a Delhiite who helped build the city's appetite for it.

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Avartana (ITC Maurya) — modern South Indian The most quietly radical kitchen on this list. Avartana takes South Indian cooking — usually served in generous, familiar thalis — and reimagines it as a precise, surprising tasting menu, all clean plates and unexpected turns. No clichés, no gimmicks, just deep technique pointed at a cuisine that rarely gets the fine-dining treatment. If you think you know South Indian food, this is the room that proves you don't.

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Have a question? Something out of date? Write to me at noam@notonamap.com and I'll help however I can.